LA Weekly: 10 Best Places in L.A. for Smoked Fish
- posted in: Press
By Jared Cowan
1. Wexler’s Deli
“All of the flavors in this place are all based on that food memory stuff,” said chef and co-owner of Wexler’s Deli, Micah Wexler. Wexler’s is the new kid on the block in the Jewish deli arena. A concept developed by Wexler along with co-owners, Mike Kassar and David Sanfield, Wexler’s Deli is a 10-seat counter establishment, which opened just a few weeks ago in downtown L.A.’s popular Grand Central Market.
Wexler said, “Our whole thing was to take it back to its roots and learn those craftsmanship ways and perfect them.” Wexler’s is the only Jewish deli in town making its own lox. They’re using farm-raised salmon from Scotland, and the final product has a buttery texture that is not very salty. Through his years in the business and his familiarity with places like Russ & Daughters in NYC, Wexler taught himself how to smoke fish and slice it. While slicing some lox, thin enough to read The New York Times through, Wexler said, “Flavors come out really strong. If you put a very little bit of lemon zest in there, you’ll taste the lemon in the salmon. All those flavors really come through so you have to be careful.”
The counter deli at Grand Central Market is a small place, so at the moment it doesn’t have the capacity to make huge quantities of lox or smoked sturgeon. Right now you can get these great smoky products on a bagel with cream cheese, some capers, and thinly sliced onions, but at some point Wexler hopes to sell poundage to go and offer other smoked fish varieties. Grand Central Market, 317 S. Broadway Los Angeles; (213) 624-2378.